by Danny Bernstein
There used to be a New York department store that used the tag line, “It’s worth a trip from anywhere!”
That’s the way I feel when I visit Fontana Lake. But because it is not convenient from anywhere, hikers and their supporters came from everywhere in the South for an overnight stay and hike organized by Friends of the Smokies.
The event started the evening before the hike where we gathered at Fontana Village Resort and Marina. Friends had reserved a set of rooms for those who wanted to come the evening before. After dinner, Dr. Dan Pierce (Dan) gave us an introduction to Hazel Creek and what we were going to see the next day on the hike. Dan is Professor Emeritus of History at the University of North Carolina Asheville, specializing in Southern Appalachian history. He has written several acclaimed books, including Hazel Creek: The Life and Death of an Iconic Mountain Town. On a personal level, Dan was my first introduction to Southern Appalachian history and culture where I first moved to Asheville years ago. I took a few of Dan’s courses and still consult him on knotty cultural or historical questions.
Briefly, Hazel Creek was home to diverse communities, including the town of Proctor. It thrived for a short while when the Ritter Lumber Company came in the early 20th century, bringing jobs, schools and even a movie theater. The community prospered. Once the trees were harvested, Ritter left, even pulling up the railroad tracks. The area went back to farming and hosting outdoor tourists. When World War II came, TVA built Fontana Dam. This resulted in the flooding of several towns and NC 288, the only road out of the area. I could have sat and listened to Dan forever, but we had to get ready for an early start the next morning.
Great Smoky Mountains National Park now protects the Hazel Creek area and the town of Proctor. And that’s where we headed the next day to explore the historical artifacts and start our hike.
The whole Lakeshore trail is over thirty miles. One end is the Lake Shore tunnel, affectionally called the Tunnel to Nowhere outside Bryson City. The trail meanders 30 miles to Fontana Dam. Despite its name, most of the trail does not border the lake. It goes up and down in the woods.
Olivia Wright, Friends’ Outreach Coordinator, had organized a boat to take us from Cable Cove to the start of the hike. Ronnie Parris, the boat operator and a vital part of the success of the hike, can only take a maximum of fifteen people on the boat. He picked us up from Cable Cove in two groups and dropped us off at the historic town of Proctor. Once on the ground, Dan Pierce’s history lecture came alive. We walked around Proctor and the Calhoun House.
The two hiking/boat groups were now reunited. Beth Ransom, an experienced hiker and hike leader was at the front. Beth and Olivia had scouted the hike a couple of weeks ago to make sure that the trail was not obstructed. I was the sweep, the tail-end Charlie, who is in the back to cajole and humor those who may have trouble keeping up.
The trail was deep in the woods, lined by tall trees. The mushroom variety was incredible – all different colors and shapes. I managed to use the Seek app to identify a beauty of a mushroom, a Berkeley Polypore. According to information online, it grows at the butt of oak trees. Yep, that’s what we were hiking through. We took a detour to a Nelms Cemetery, a small cemetery at the top of a mound. Cemeteries in the park are not labeled but Olivia and Beth found it.
Besides Olivia and Dana Soehn, the President of Friends of the Smokies, we had a couple of other celebrity hikers. Heath Soehn, Dana’s husband who is a retired law enforcement ranger, was on the trail. Boone Vandzura, who recently retired as Chief Ranger in the Smokies, and his wife also joined us. Heath was particularly helpful in pointing out a huge yellow jacket on the trail before we stepped in it.
By the time, Group 2 (my group) got to the end of the hike at Pilkey Creek, the first, fast, group had long gone back to their cars and on their way home. It didn’t take long for Ronnie with his boat and his friendly, helpful manner to greet us and help us back on the boat and back to Cable Cove and our cars. Saying goodbye, “what hike will I see you on next,” and exchanging emails with new friends finished up the day.
Thanks as always to Friends of the Smokies and Olivia for planning these great adventures in the park. Check out the Friends’ web page and https://friendsofthesmokies.org/hike-with-trails-forever/ for the full hike schedule.
TRAILS FOREVER HIKES – Spots Available throughout 2025
Take a hike and help restore the most loved trails in the Smokies. The Forever Trails Hikes program offers expert guided hikes twice a month now through October 2024. It’s just $25 per hike and all proceeds go to Trails Forever. Space is limited, so check out the schedule and register at https://friendsofthesmokies.org/hike-with-trails-forever/